The 2003 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is such an atypical vintage that it's hard to know how to score it. With a pH of 3.75 and 14% alcohol, there's almost no acidity—Leflaive opting, unlike many producers, not to add any tartaric acid in this hot, low-yielding vintage. Offering up aromas of preserved peaches, honeycomb, orange rind, white flowers and licorice, it's full-bodied, rich and fat, with an unctuous, oily texture, a massive endowment of chewy dry extract and a long, sweet—despite the wine containing no residual sugar—and exotic finish. While the wine's low acidity makes it a little cumbersome, it's also true that it's aging at a glacial pace, and it's very hard to predict how it will taste in another two decades. This Chevalier is certainly one of the high points of the 2003 white Burgundy vintage but also a wine that exemplifies its extremes.