Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2009
The 2009 Gigondas seems slightly reduced from bottle, which is unusual for a tasting in Barruol’s cellars. A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 17% Mourvedre and the rest Cinsault, this densely colored wine possesses some rather hard tannins as well as a slightly disjointed mouthfeel, but loads of concentration and intensity. If it pulls itself together and the jaggedness of the tannins dissipates, this will become a very good wine.
It has taken a while, but one of my favorite producers in the southern Rhone, Louis Barruol of Saint-Cosme, is getting very good publicity just about everywhere I look. It is certainly well-deserved, considering the broad range of wines he produces, from his inexpensive and over-delivering Cotes du Rhones and Vins de Pays, to his top-flight, world-class wines made in Gigondas. This is all a matter of hard work and understanding viticulture and great terroirs. As for the estate wines from Gigondas, 2009 was a more challenging vintage for Louis Barruol than many people probably understand, because he had some serious hail issues that cut into his Grenache crop. His best vintage to date is 2007, but 2010 is going to come close, and he has certainly excelled in a much more difficult vintage for him personally, 2009. The 2010s are probably Barruol’s greatest vintage since 2007, yet slightly more tannic and backward at a similar stage in their development than the 2007s were. All of the following wines are 100% Grenache, with the exception of the first two.